How to Make Herb-Infused Oil (Two Ways)

Herb-infused oil is the foundation of just about everything we make at LeeHouse: salves, balms, massage oils, cooking oils, you name it. It's also one of the easiest things to make at home, and once you've got a jar of it going, you'll start eyeing every plant in your garden as a candidate.

Here we’ll share some basic info and our own tips and tricks for making potent infused oils.

There are three main ways to infuse oil: the heat method, which is fast and great when you want oil in a day, the solar (or cold) method, which is slower but gentler and preserves more of the delicate qualities in certain herbs, and the alcohol intermediary method, a more advanced technique that draws out a broader range of a plant's compounds and extends shelf life. I’m not going to entertain conversation about which method is better. You do what works best for you. Practice, try out different methods, see what you think!

Ingredients

• Dried herbs of your choice - yes, dried. Please don’t mess with fresh unless you are truly experienced. Mold is no joke.
• A carrier oil: we use coconut oil because we love the extra fatty lipids and how they nourish your skin, plus the smell. But olive oil, sweet almond oil, jojoba, and sunflower oil all work well.
• Enough oil to fully submerge your herbs, with room to spare

Equipment Needed

• A clean glass jar or bottle with a lid
• A double-boiler, or a make-shift one (a heatproof bowl set over a saucepan of water), if using the heat method
• Cheesecloth or a fine-mesh strainer for straining
• A dark or amber glass jar for storing the finished oil, if you have one; it helps the oil keep longer

A Note on Dried Herbs

Please. Use fully dried herbs. Moisture invites mold into an infusion, and mold is not something to mess around with, so dry your herbs completely before they go into the oil. If you've just harvested, give them the time they need to dry all the way through first. There are few things more disappointing than having your jar of beautifully infused oils develop mold.

Method 1: Heat-Infused Oil (Fast)

1. Fill your jar about halfway to two-thirds full with dried herbs.
2. Pour your oil over the herbs until they're fully submerged, with about an inch of oil above the herb line.
3. Set the jar (uncovered, or with the lid resting loosely on top) into a double-boiler.
4. Heat gently over low heat for 2–4 hours, checking occasionally to make sure the oil never simmers or bubbles. You're infusing, not frying.
5. Once the oil has taken on a deep color and a strong scent of the herb, remove from heat and let it cool slightly.
6. Strain through cheesecloth into your storage jar, squeezing out as much oil from the herb material as you can.
7. Label with the herb and date, and store in a cool, dark place.
8. You can also use a crockpot on low. I put a towel at the bottom of the crockpot for the jar to rest on so the oils don’t overheat.

Method 2: Solar-Infused Oil (Slow)

1. Fill your jar about halfway to two-thirds full with dried herbs, then cover completely with oil, leaving about an inch above the herb line.
2. Seal the jar and set it somewhere it'll get warm, gentle sunlight (a windowsill works well).
3. Let it sit for 4–6 weeks, giving the jar a gentle shake every few days.
4. Strain through cheesecloth into your storage jar, squeezing out as much oil as you can.
5. Label with the herb and date, and store in a cool, dark place.

Method 3: Alcohol Intermediary Method (Advanced)

This one's gaining popularity for good reason. A quick spritz of alcohol starts breaking down the plant's cell walls before the oil ever touches it, which means the oil can pull out more of what's inside, resulting in a more complete, more potent finished product.

1. Use dried herbs only. This method depends on the alcohol doing clean, targeted work on the cell walls, and fresh herbs work against that.
2. Spread your dried herbs out on a clean surface or cutting board.
3. Using a small spray bottle, spritz the herbs with a high-proof alcohol, such as vodka, until they're evenly moist. You're not soaking them, just getting an even coating.
4. Let them sit for 15 to 30 minutes. This gives the alcohol time to break down the cell walls and start releasing what's inside.
5. Transfer the herbs into your jar and proceed with either the heat or solar infusion method above, using your carrier oil as usual.
6. Strain through cheesecloth into your storage jar, squeezing out as much oil as you can.
7. Label with the herb and date, and store in a cool, dark place.

Because you're using a light spritz rather than a full soak, there's less trace alcohol left in the finished oil than with a full alcohol-soak method, but it's still there in a small amount, so this oil is best kept to topical use like salves and balms rather than anything you'd cook or eat.

Types of Oils for Infusing

The oil you choose changes the texture, absorption, and shelf life of your finished infusion. A few we reach for regularly:

• Jojoba oil: technically a liquid wax, not an oil, which gives it an especially long shelf life and a texture that closely mimics skin's own oils. A great choice when you want something that absorbs cleanly.
• Extra virgin olive oil (EVOO): a classic infusion base with a long history in herbalism. Stays liquid, has a natural richness, and holds up well over time.
• Unrefined Coconut oil: solid at room temperature, which makes it a natural fit for salves that need to set up firm. Adds a light coconut scent unless you use a refined/deodorized version. Again, I love the fattiness of unrefined coconut oil, it is so nourishing to your skin!

Other solid options if you're experimenting: sweet almond oil (light, gentle, good for sensitive skin), sunflower oil (neutral scent, budget-friendly), and grapeseed oil (very light, fast-absorbing). There's no single "correct" oil. It depends on the texture and shelf life you're after.

Herbal Oils We Always Keep Stocked

A few herbs earn a permanent spot in our infusion rotation:

• Calendula: our most-used herb for a reason. Gentle, skin-soothing, and well-tolerated even on sensitive skin.
• Plantain: the common garden "weed," not the banana relative. A go-to for soothing skin that's been scratched, bitten, or irritated.
• Comfrey: traditionally valued for supporting skin and tissue recovery. Worth noting: comfrey contains compounds that most safety sources recommend keeping away from broken or open skin. Reach for it on intact skin only.
• Mullein root: a lesser-known root with a long history of traditional use for connective tissue and joint support.

How Long Does Herb-Infused Oil Last?

Properly strained and stored, herb-infused oil typically keeps for about a year. If it ever smells off, looks cloudy, or has any sign of mold, toss it and start fresh. Better safe than sorry.

FAQ

• Can I mix multiple herbs in one infusion?
  Yes, we do this regularly. Just keep in mind that different herbs may call for slightly different infusion times, so if you're combining a fast-releasing herb with a slower one, the heat or alcohol intermediary methods tend to give more consistent results than solar infusing.
  
  
• Do I need to strain out every last bit of plant material?
  Get as much as you reasonably can. Any tiny bits left behind won't ruin your oil, but more plant matter left in the oil means a shorter shelf life, so it's worth the extra squeeze through the cheesecloth.
  
  
• Can I reuse the same oil for a second batch of herbs?
  I don’t, but others do. If you want a really potent oil, start fresh each time.
  
  
• What's the best oil to use?
  It depends on what you're making. Coconut oil is solid at room temperature, which makes it a natural fit for salves. Olive oil and sweet almond oil stay liquid and work well for massage oils or when you want something that soaks in a bit differently.

Once you've got your infused oil ready, you're most of the way to a homemade salve. Check out our Pet First Aid Salve recipe to put it to work, or browse our own small-batch herbal products if you'd rather skip straight to the finished thing.

These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. This product is not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease.